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FORMAL WEAR GLOSSARY OF TERMS

 

Have you ever taken your car in for a repair and had the mechanic bombard you with an assortment of technical terms and part names? 

"I'm sorry to say sir, but the pitman arm is shot.  And I think we should replace the drag link while we're under there"

He might as well have told you that your "Flux Capacitor" needs to be replaced.  You wouldn't know any different. 

Well, before you go into a formal wear or tuxedo shop, you should take a moment to learn some of the terms they will be using.  It will insure that you get what you really want and you may just impress them in the process.

 

Suits

 

Cutaway or Stroller:  For formal or daytime weddings, the groom wears the cutaway / morning coat, which tapers from the front waist button to a long, wide back tail. The cutaway jacket is either black or grey and is worn with matching striped trousers.

 

Dinner Jacket:  A white or ivory jacket with black formal trousers is an ideal option in Spring and Summer months or year-round in warmer climates.

 

Tuxedo:  A single or double breasted jacket with matching trousers for formal or semi-formal evening events.

 

White Tie:  This is a classic choice for an ultra formal evening event. The tailcoat jacket is short in front with two long black tails. A white pique wing collar shirt, vest and tie are also worn.

 

Lapels

 

Tuxedo jackets come with three basic lapel styles. Some are more flattering to certain body types. Choosing the lapel that is right for you is a matter of taste.

 

Notch:  A triangle indention is cut where the lapel joins the collar.

 

Peak:  A broad V-shaped lapel that points up and out just below the collar line.

 

Shawl:  A smooth, rounded lapel.

 

Shirts

 

The main difference between shirt styles is in the collar.

 

Band Collar:  A collar that stands up around the neck and above the buttons. This is the most contemporary style tuxedo shirt.

 

Wing Collar:  Similar to the band collar but the two turned down points in front give the appearance of a spread collar.

 

Spread Collar:  Similar to a man's standard button front shirt, it folds over and around the neck with a wide division between points in front.

 

Accessories

 

Ascot:  A wide necktie that is looped over and held in place beneath the chin with a tie tack or stick pin.

 

Bow Tie:  A short tie shaped like a bow that can be worn with a wing or spread collar. A bow tie adjusts to fit any neck size and are available in a variety of colors to match vests and cummerbunds.

 

Cuff Links:  Decorative jewelry, used to close French Cuffs.

 

Cummerbunds:  A silk or satin sash as an alternative to a vest, to be worn at the waist and covering the waistband. A cummerbund should be worn with the pleats facing upward.

 

Euro Tie:  A long knotted square bottom neck tie worn with a wing or spread collar shirt.

 

Four-In-Hand Tie:  A standard long knotted necktie worn with a spread collar. Most men wear a four-in-hand tie to work daily.

 

Studs (no, not the guys in the wedding party):  Jewelry similar to cuff links that are used to close the front of a tuxedo shirt.

 

Vest:  A vest is worn in place of a cummerbund to cover the waistband. A vest is usually worn with a coordinating bow tie. A vest comes in a full back, half back and open back.

 

 

References:

- Ascot Tuxedos of Texas

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